Wardrobe Cost Calculator 2026: Estimate Price

Wardrobe Cost Calculator: The Quick Answer

A wardrobe cost calculator estimates your total wardrobe expense based on size (square feet), material choice (plywood, HDHMR, MDF), door type (sliding vs hinged), finish quality, and internal accessories—with prices typically ranging from ₹1,400–₹3,500 per sq ft depending on material and finish.

Short version: The price of a modular wardrobe depends on sq. ft., design, materials, accessories, handles and labour cost. For a standard 7' x 6' bedroom wardrobe (42 sq ft), you're looking at anywhere between ₹60,000 for a basic laminate finish to ₹1.5 lakh+ for a premium sliding wardrobe with all the fancy accessories. Wardrobe interior cost can range from ₹60,000 – ₹2 lakhs depending on material like laminate, acrylic, veneer, or glass.

This is right for you if:

You're planning a new home and need realistic budget numbers before talking to contractors
Your interior designer gave you a quote and you're wondering if it's reasonable—this happens more than you'd think, especially with first-time homeowners who don't know the market rates
You want to compare sliding vs hinged costs before committing
You need to break down the cost between carcass, shutters, hardware, and accessories for better negotiation

Skip this if:

You're buying a readymade wardrobe from a showroom—they have fixed prices, no calculations needed
Your budget is under ₹30,000—at that point, a steel almirah or ready furniture makes more sense

Bottom line: Expect to spend ₹1,200-1,800 per sq ft for a basic hinged wardrobe with laminate finish, and ₹2,200-3,500+ per sq ft for a premium sliding wardrobe with soft-close accessories.

What a Wardrobe Cost Calculator Actually Does

A wardrobe cost calculator is a tool that multiplies your wardrobe dimensions (height × width) by a rate-per-square-foot, then adjusts for material grade, door type, finish quality, and internal accessories. When calculating the cost of your wardrobe interior, a modular wardrobe price calculator takes into account the size and layout of your wardrobe, the materials you choose, and the accessories you select.

Most people think you can just take the sq ft and multiply by one number. Actually, that's only the starting point. To calculate the square feet rates, many parameters have to be ascertained apart from site based parameters like work timings, location etc. Your final cost depends heavily on what's inside—drawers, soft-close mechanisms, trouser racks, jewellery trays—and these can add 30-50% to your base estimate.

How is wardrobe square footage calculated?

Calculate the height. In this case, it is 7'. (7' is usually considered as a standard wardrobe height and lofts are adjusted in height based on ceiling heights.) Then measure the width. Multiply the two to get the square feet or sft of the wardrobe. So the wardrobe in this figure is 7'X6' = 42 square feet.

Here's where most online calculators get it wrong—they don't account for loft storage separately. Loft addition adds ₹1,500 per sq. ft. on top of your base wardrobe cost. So if you've got a 2' loft above a 7' wardrobe, that's additional area calculated at a higher rate because of the added structural requirements.

Why Wardrobe Costs Vary So Much in Indian Homes

I've been doing this long enough to know that a wardrobe quote in Chennai hits differently than one in Pune. It's not just about labour rates—though that's definitely a factor.

The range of prices may vary based on any of the factors, taking the markets of Bangalore, Hyderabad and Pune to give the range of prices. Coastal cities like Mumbai, Chennai, and Kolkata have humidity levels hitting 75-90% during monsoon. This means you can't skimp on moisture-resistant materials, or your beautiful new wardrobe becomes a swollen mess by December.

BWR plywood is the most durable and moisture-resistant option for these areas, but it adds ₹100-200 per sq ft compared to standard MR grade. In drier cities like Pune, Bangalore (except during monsoon), or Ahmedabad, you might get away with MR plywood for bedroom wardrobes—but I'd still recommend BWP or HDHMR for anything near bathrooms.

The Ghatkopar side of Mumbai, for instance, tends to get more humidity than Powai or Andheri West. Same city, different microclimate. I've seen wardrobes in Chembur homes develop edge swelling within two monsoons while identical wardrobes in Bandra stayed fine for five years. Location matters more than most guides admit.

Material Options: What Actually Goes Into Your Wardrobe

Let me break this down properly because the material choice is probably 40-50% of your total cost.

Is HDHMR better than plywood for wardrobes?

HDHMR board is a robust material created by combining wood fibers with resin. It excels in moisture resistance and is suitable for areas with high humidity, such as kitchens and bathrooms. HDHMR boards, being high-density, are inherently more robust than traditional plywood. This makes them an excellent choice for furniture that requires enhanced strength, such as kitchen cabinets and wardrobes.

But—and this is what most HDHMR sellers won't tell you—even though HDMR boards are fairly waterproof, they tend to bend and lose shape after long-term use. If the unit needs to hold a lot of weight, like tall cabinets, wardrobes, or loft storage, plywood is a stronger option. It keeps its shape, holds screws better, and won't sag under load.

My take: Use HDHMR for shutter doors (excellent surface for PU or acrylic finish), but stick with BWP/BWR plywood for the internal carcass and shelves. Best of both worlds.

Material	Cost per sq ft (approx)	Moisture Resistance	Best For	My Recommendation
MR Plywood	₹45-70	Moderate	Dry bedrooms, budget builds	Only if budget is really tight
BWR/BWP Plywood	₹80-150	High	All wardrobes, especially humid areas	Best all-rounder for carcass
HDHMR	₹60-110	Very High	Shutter doors, painted finishes	Excellent for PU/Duco finish shutters
Marine Plywood	₹120-180	Waterproof	Near bathrooms, coastal homes	Worth it for attached bathroom wardrobes
MDF	₹35-55	Poor	Interior shelves in dry areas only	Avoid for wardrobes—seriously

Price Reality Check: 2026 Market Rates

Note: sainik710.com is an independent informational site and is not affiliated with any manufacturer.

Right, let me give you the actual numbers I'm seeing in the market right now. These aren't showroom MRPs—these are what you'll actually pay when you negotiate properly with a good contractor.

Basic Wardrobe (Laminate Finish, Hinged Doors)

Expect to pay roughly ₹1,200-1,600 per sq ft. The plywood used for all framework is IS303 BWR or MR plywood. The polishes (where mentioned) are done on HDHMR boards. Normal close fittings from Hettich or Ebco are taken with normal hinged shutters. A standard 6' wide × 7' tall wardrobe (42 sq ft) comes to ₹50,000-68,000.

Mid-Range Wardrobe (Acrylic/PU Finish, Soft-Close)

On average, ₹1,400–₹3,500 per sq ft depending on material and finish. Most homeowners land somewhere in the ₹1,800-2,400 range for a nice bedroom wardrobe with soft-close hinges and a couple of drawers. That 42 sq ft wardrobe? Now you're at ₹75,000-1,00,000.

Premium Wardrobe (Sliding Doors, Full Accessories)

A basic fitted wardrobe cost with two swing doors starts from ₹53,000. But sliding? That's a different story. Generally, sliding wardrobe doors tend to be more expensive due to the added complexity of the track system and the materials used. Installation can also be more involved, which may increase labour costs.

Add soft-close sliding channels (₹8,000-15,000 per track depending on brand), trouser racks, jewellery trays, pull-out shoe racks—and you're easily at ₹2,800-4,000 per sq ft. The price of a closet can vary dramatically based on multiple factors, from the obvious ones like size and material to the not-so-obvious ones like internal organisation systems and hardware quality.

Here's what actually affects your final bill:

Plywood grade: Use of Greenply Gold may increase prices by another Rs.150-200 per sq ft compared to standard brands
Hardware brand: Hettich/Hafele/Blum vs local brands—can be ₹5,000-15,000 difference for a single wardrobe
Finish type: Laminate (cheapest) → Acrylic → PU Paint → Veneer (most expensive)
Accessories: Must-have wardrobe accessories include pull-out drawers, shoe racks, tie & belt organizers, LED lighting, and pull-down hanging rods. These help maximize space, improve organization, and give your wardrobe a premium finish.
Labour costs: This cost usually depends on supply and demand as well as cost of living of the city. This also varies based on the experience of the carpenters and other workers.

Sliding vs Hinged Wardrobes: The Real Comparison

You need to choose between a hinged door or a sliding door when you are purchasing or fabricating a new wardrobe. A hinged door is fixed on to the wardrobe with simple hinges while sliding shutters are panels that slide on tracks.

Parameter	Hinged Doors	Sliding Doors	My Preference
Cost	Lower—generally lower than sliding doors, primarily due to the more straightforward design and fewer components	Higher by 20-40%	Hinged if budget matters
Space Required	Hinged wardrobe doors take additional space as they swing outwards	Don't require any additional space in the room to open	Sliding for compact rooms
Visibility	Swing wide open, enabling a full view of the closet. This is one of the main differentiating factors	One side of the cupboard is always covered, making it impossible to open and see the cupboard in its entirety	Hinged if you're like me and need to see everything
Maintenance	The hinges can be easily tightened or replaced in case of damage. Hinges are much cheaper and readily available	Clean the tracks and lubricate the rollers regularly; get a carpenter to periodically readjust the sliding panels	Hinged for lower hassle
Max Door Width	Maximum width of 24 inches to prevent excess load on the hinges	Each panel can have a maximum width of 4 feet	Sliding for wall-to-wall designs
Wardrobe Depth	Around 60-62 cm	The sliding version will have a depth of around 65-66 cm because doors slide one above the other	Depends on room layout
Modern Look	Traditional feel	A modern alternative to traditional options	Sliding for contemporary bedrooms
Two People Access	Can be used by two people at the same time. A couple can open all doors and have access to their own compartments	One person blocks the other	Hinged for couples

Choose hinged when: Budget is tight, room has adequate clearance (at least 2.5 ft in front), you want full visibility, or you share the wardrobe with a partner.

Choose sliding when: Room is compact (less than 12 × 10 ft), bed is close to wardrobe, you want a modern aesthetic, or wardrobe width exceeds 6 feet.

Trade-off summary: You gain space-saving and aesthetics with sliding but lose visibility and pay 25-40% more. When compared to sliding wardrobes, hinged wardrobes are simple to build, move around, and are also less expensive. Hinged wardrobes also fit into an L-shaped corner or asymmetrical spaces with ease.

How to Choose: Decision Framework

Let me walk you through this step by step—because honestly, most people overcomplicate the decision.

Step 1: Measure your wall space

Not just width. Check for electrical boards, windows, AC placement. I've seen people plan 8-foot wardrobes only to realize there's an AC inlet in the middle. That's a ₹15,000 modification charge right there.

Step 2: Calculate realistic square footage

Typical wardrobes are 7' in height (or door level). Make sure that this is what your contractor has used. Many websites sell wardrobes of 6'-6.5' and people do not realize the difference until its too late. Width depends on room—6' is standard, 8-10' for master bedrooms.

Step 3: Decide door type based on room layout

Hinged doors serve well when the rooms are big or there is apt space clearance, while, sliding doors serve well even in confined and compact spaces.

Step 4: List your must-have accessories

Be honest here. Good layout design can increase usable storage by 30–40% without increasing wardrobe size. But more accessories = more cost.

Step 5: Get at least 3 quotes

One from a branded modular company, one from a local contractor with good reputation, one from a carpenter. Compare apples to apples—same materials, same hardware.

Your Situation	Recommendation	Why
Budget under ₹60,000 for 6' wardrobe	Hinged, laminate finish, MR/BWR ply	Best value for money
Compact bedroom (10' × 12' or smaller)	Sliding doors, consider loft storage	Space optimization critical
Coastal city or high humidity	BWP ply or HDHMR, marine ply near bathroom	Moisture protection essential
Walk-in closet or dressing area	Open shelving + hinged sections, good lighting	Visibility matters here
10+ year durability needed	BWP ply carcass, HDHMR shutters, Hettich hardware	HDF boards can last 30-40 years with proper care
Builder flat with limited customization	Modular wardrobe from reputed brand	Faster installation, warranty backup

Exception: If you're in a rented flat, forget all this. Buy a readymade wardrobe from Godrej or Nilkamal. You can take it with you when you move.

Red flags to walk away from:

Quote doesn't specify plywood grade or brand
"Same as Hettich" hardware—either it's Hettich or it's not
No breakdown between material, labour, and accessories
Advance payment demand above 40%
No written warranty on hardware and workmanship

Common Mistakes People Make (And How to Avoid Them)

1. Ignoring the depth requirement

Standard wardrobe depth is 22-24 inches. The depth of a hinged wardrobe can be around 60-62 cm. The sliding version will have a depth of around 65-66 cm. If you go below 20 inches to save space, your hanging clothes will get crushed against the back panel. Big mistake.

2. Skipping soft-close hardware to save ₹5,000

I've seen this happen over and over. Normal hinges work fine for a year, then start making that annoying creaking sound. Soft-close adds maybe ₹150-300 per door. Over 10 doors, that's ₹1,500-3,000—not ₹5,000 like some dealers claim. Ask for itemized hardware costs.

3. Using MDF for the entire wardrobe

MDF is made from wood fibers that have been compressed into a board. It is less expensive than HDHMR board and plywood, but it is not as strong or durable. MDF is also not as water-resistant as HDHMR board. One humid monsoon and you'll see the shelves sagging. Use MDF only for interior back panels if you must—never for shelves or carcass.

4. Trusting the 3D render over actual measurements

This one really frustrates me. The beautiful 3D design your interior designer shows you means nothing if actual measurements are off. I worked with a family in Andheri last year—their designer made a gorgeous wardrobe plan, but forgot to account for the beam running across the ceiling. Result? 6-inch gap at the top that looked terrible and collected dust like nobody's business.

5. Not planning for electrical inside the wardrobe

LED lighting, charging points for devices, ironing board electrical—all need planning before the wardrobe frame goes up. Adding electrical later means cutting through finished panels. Looks bad, costs extra.

6. Choosing finish before seeing actual samples

Computer screen colors lie. Always—and I mean always—get physical samples of laminate or acrylic sheets. What looks like a nice warm walnut on screen might look orange in your bedroom lighting.

7. Assuming "modular" means higher quality

Modular just means factory-made in standard modules. Modular wardrobes offer faster installation, while custom wardrobes provide better space optimization. A skilled local carpenter with good materials can match or beat modular quality—at 20-30% lower cost. The trade-off is longer installation time and less warranty backup.

8. Overloading on accessories you won't use

That rotating shoe rack for ₹30,000 looks great in the showroom. But if you own 8 pairs of shoes, a simple shoe shelf for ₹3,000 works just fine. Be realistic about your storage habits.

9. Not waterproofing the base in ground-floor homes

Ground floor apartments near gardens or in older buildings can have seepage issues. A simple plywood wardrobe sitting directly on potentially damp flooring will rot from the bottom up. Always use either a granite/tile base or marine ply for the bottom section.

10. Forgetting about future needs

Decide the function of the wardrobe. Do you have lot of clothes to hang? Do you need to keep linen in the wardrobe? Is it going to have kids toys? Do you need space for shoes as well? This decision will help you have a discussion with your designer and it impacts the cost as well.

Quality Checks You Can Do Yourself

Visual Checks:

Look at plywood edges—you should see clear, distinct layers without gaps or voids
Check for ISI marking on plywood (IS:303 for MR, IS:710 for BWP/BWR)
Laminate should have no bubbles, peeling edges, or color variations
Hardware should have brand name stamped—not stickers that can be removed
Edge banding should be flush with surface, no lifting at corners
Drawer channels should slide smoothly without wobbling

Questions to ask your dealer/contractor:

"Which exact plywood brand and grade are you using? Show me the invoice."
"What's the warranty on hardware vs workmanship—separately?"
"If a soft-close mechanism fails in year 2, what's the replacement cost?"
"Are the normal close fittings from Hettich or Ebco?" Name the brand specifically.
"Can I visit your ongoing project to see actual work quality?"

Simple field tests:

Tap test: Knock on the panel—solid sound = good density, hollow sound = possible voids or thin core
Weight check: Lift a sample piece—good 18mm BWP should feel heavy, not light
Edge inspection: Run your finger along plywood edges—should feel smooth, not splintery
Flex test: For shutters, gently try to flex—excessive bending indicates thin or poor-grade material
Screw test: Ask to put a screw in sample piece and pull it out—good ply holds screws firmly

Here's a trick most dealers don't like: Ask for the empty laminate sheet wrapper or plywood grade sticker. Genuine materials come with proper packaging and grade markings. If they can't provide it, the material source is questionable.

Workmanship & Installation: What to Tell Your Carpenter

Right, this is where many wardrobes go from good to terrible. The best materials in the world won't save a poorly executed wardrobe.

Cutting requirements:

All cuts should be made with a table saw or track saw—not circular saw freehand
Plywood should be cut with the good side facing up to prevent chipping
All laminated/acrylic sheet shutters should have 2mm PVC edge banding

Edge sealing matters more than you think:

Every exposed plywood edge is a potential moisture entry point. In Mumbai or Chennai, unsealed edges will absorb humidity within weeks. I've seen carpenters skip edge banding on hidden shelves to save time—by the second monsoon, those shelves had swelled up by 3-4mm at the edges. ₹40 worth of edge banding could have prevented a ₹15,000 repair.

Fastener guidance:

Use 35mm screws for 18mm ply panels (screw should go at least 15mm into the receiving panel)
Pre-drill holes for hardwood veneered plywood—prevents splitting
Cam locks for knock-down wardrobes, wood screws for permanent installations
Never use nails for structural joints—this isn't 1990

What to tell your carpenter (briefing checklist):

"I want all edges sealed—visible and hidden"
"Pre-drill before screwing into any veneer or laminate surface"
"Keep a 5mm gap at the back from wall for air circulation"
"Show me the hinge placement before fixing permanently"
"All drawer channels should be level—use a spirit level"
"No shortcuts on soft-close adjustment—I'll check each door myself"

Storage and acclimatization:

If plywood is delivered and installed the same day without letting it adjust to your room's humidity, expect minor warping within months. Good practice: let sheets sit in the room for 48-72 hours before cutting. Most carpenters skip this because they're paid per day, not per quality outcome.

How Long Does a Wardrobe Actually Last?

Honest answer? It depends almost entirely on two factors: material quality and maintenance.

Good quality BWP/BWR plywood with Hettich hardware: 15-25 years easily. I've seen 20-year-old wardrobes in dry Pune bedrooms still working perfectly—original hinges, no swelling, shutters close smoothly.

HDHMR boards: HDF boards can last 30-40 years with proper care. Their density and moisture resistance make them sturdier than MDF, but proper sealing in high-humidity areas like kitchens prolongs their lifespan.

MR plywood in humid areas: Maybe 5-8 years before you start seeing edge swelling and termite damage.

Budget MDF: 3-5 years if lucky. I've seen MDF shelves sag under normal load within 18 months.

What affects longevity:

Humidity exposure—biggest killer of Indian wardrobes
Overloading shelves beyond design capacity
Rough handling of doors and drawers
Lack of regular hardware maintenance
Water spillage that goes uncleaned

Signs of wear to watch for:

Doors not closing flush (hinge adjustment needed or warping started)
Soft-close mechanism taking longer than 2 seconds to engage
Visible edge swelling at shelf ends
Laminate peeling at corners or near handles
Musty smell inside (moisture absorption happening)

When to consider replacement:

If repair costs exceed 40% of new wardrobe cost, start fresh. Usually happens around the 12-15 year mark for mid-range wardrobes.

Alternatives Worth Considering

If budget is really tight (under ₹40,000 for a 6' wardrobe):

Consider a steel almirah from Godrej or Nilkamal. Zero termite worry, completely moisture-proof, lasts 25+ years. Not as aesthetic, but incredibly practical. Add a fabric curtain front if looks matter.

If you need better moisture resistance than standard plywood:

When your project is a kitchen cabinet, bathroom vanity, or any furniture that could get damp or needs to last long, HDHMR is a top choice. It's great for cabinet shutters, wardrobe doors, shelves in humid areas, and even decorative wall paneling. Our HDHMR guide covers this material in more detail if you want to understand grades and brands.

If you want maximum customization at lowest cost:

Open shelving systems with curtain fronts. Seriously. ₹25,000 gets you more storage than a ₹80,000 traditional wardrobe. Just requires regular dusting since there's no door. Works great in dressing rooms or walk-in closets. The wardrobe plywood guide on our site discusses shelving material options.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I calculate the cost of a wardrobe myself?

Multiply height × width to get square feet. For a basic laminate hinged wardrobe, use ₹1,300-1,500/sq ft. For sliding with accessories, use ₹2,200-2,800/sq ft. Add 15-20% for unexpected modifications—there are always some. The prices mentioned are an estimate of the wardrobe costs based on the scope of work. Your wardrobe design prices can vary depending on the labour charges, material and finish, design, and the size of your home.

Is it true that sliding wardrobes cost double compared to hinged?

Common belief. Reality: more like 25-40% extra, not 100%. Ideally, sliding doors will increase the price because the cost of channels is usually many times the cost of hinges which they replace. Good soft-close sliding channels cost ₹6,000-12,000 per track vs ₹150-400 per hinge. But the overall wardrobe cost difference isn't double unless you're going ultra-premium.

What if I live in a coastal city like Chennai or Mumbai?

Non-negotiable: use BWP/BWR plywood or marine grade for carcass. HDHMR for shutters. The plywood used for all framework is IS303 BWR or MR plywood—in your case, go IS710 (BWP) only. Edge band everything. Consider a dehumidifier in your bedroom during monsoon. And never place wardrobe directly against an external wall that gets rain.

Is it true that local carpenters give better value than branded modular companies?

Depends entirely on the carpenter. A skilled mistri with 15+ years experience can match modular quality at 20-30% lower price. But finding that person is hard—many cut corners when unsupervised. Branded modular gives consistency and warranty backup. My take: if your interior designer has worked with a carpenter before and vouches for them, trust that. Otherwise, modular is safer.

What thickness plywood should I use for wardrobe shelves?

18mm for shelves that will hold weight. 12mm is acceptable for side panels and back panels only. I've seen contractors use 12mm for main shelves to cut costs—those shelves sag within a year under normal clothes load. Never compromise on shelf thickness.

How much do internal accessories actually add to the cost?

Quite a lot. A pull-out trouser rack runs ₹5,000-8,000. Jewellery trays: ₹8,000-12,000. Wardrobe pullout drawer organizers are designed for 450, 600, 800 and 900mm wide cabinets, with soft close feature. For a fully loaded wardrobe with all accessories, accessories alone can be 30-40% of total cost. Be selective—list what you'll actually use daily.

Is it true that HDHMR is better than plywood in every way?

Common belief: HDHMR is superior. Reality: plywood can warp if it's not properly seasoned or if it's subjected to uneven moisture, whereas HDHMR and MDF, being engineered, are more uniform in expansion. In a straightforward comparison for indoor furniture: HDHMR is the most durable, followed by good-grade plywood, then MDF. But—if the unit needs to hold a lot of weight, like tall cabinets, wardrobes, or loft storage, plywood is a stronger option. It keeps its shape, holds screws better, and won't sag under load. Use both strategically.

Can I add more accessories to my wardrobe later?

Yes! You can add or upgrade wardrobe accessories in your bedroom wardrobe or wardrobe closet anytime. A range of fittings can be installed even after the wardrobe is built. Just make sure internal heights were planned with flexibility—standard drawer channels need 150mm clearance minimum.

What's the real difference between Hettich and Ebco hardware?

Both are good brands. Hettich is German-origin (now made in India), Ebco is Indian. Price difference: maybe 10-15% in Hettich's favor. Performance difference: negligible for most home applications. What matters more is getting genuine branded hardware—not "equivalent" copies that fail after 6 months.

Should I include a mirror on my wardrobe door?

Full-length mirror inside wardrobe door: practical, adds maybe ₹2,000-4,000 depending on size. Mirror on sliding door exterior: looks great but adds significant weight—needs stronger tracks and costs ₹8,000-15,000 extra. Custom-made sliding doors or those with glass or mirrored panels can increase the price.

How long does wardrobe installation take?

Factory-made modular: Usually 2–4 days, as most parts are factory-made. Carpenter-made on site: 5-10 days depending on complexity and accessories. Don't let anyone rush installation—quality execution takes time.

Is it true that painted finish (PU/Duco) is more durable than laminate?

Myth: PU finish lasts longer. Reality: Good quality laminates are extremely durable and handle daily wear better than paint. PU finish is more about aesthetics—it gives that smooth, seamless look without visible joints. It also scratches more easily than laminate and is harder to repair if damaged. For family use with kids, laminate is more practical.

That's the gist. If you've read this far, you know more about wardrobe costing than 90% of first-time homeowners. One final tip: take photos of every stage during installation—materials, internal structure, hardware placement. If anything goes wrong later, you'll have documentation. And seriously—don't let the mistri skip edge banding on those interior shelves. Good luck with the project.

Disclaimer: This content is provided for general informational purposes based on industry practices and publicly available information. Product specifications, standards, prices, and availability may vary by manufacturer, region, and time. Readers should independently verify details with manufacturers, dealers, or qualified professionals before making purchase or construction decisions.

Wardrobe Cost Calculator: Estimate Price by Size, Material & Design (2026)